Sunday, January 12, 2014

Log Book: December 23rd-25th

Conditions: 10 knots S wind
Location: Vero Beach

We left Eau Gallie quite early this morning, we needed to get to Vero Beach with enough time to restock our food supply. We had originally hoped to make it to West Palm for Christmas but it would be quite a flight to make in the next two days so we will stay the holiday in Vero Beach. We got a mooring with the marina there and made our way ashore. Vero turned out to be a great place to stop. They had a West Marine and a grocery store close by, a free shuttle to bring you there and back, and wide bike lanes. We got some authentic Mexican food while we were doing our shopping and then headed back to the marina. Even though it doesn't feel like Christmas in the warm weather, a few boat owners had tried to bring the Christmas spirit into the harbor, decking their boats in colored lights and miniature fir trees. Mom gave me a small Cyprus tree when we saw her in Jacksonville so I guess Dad and I are participating a bit. We relaxed and watched the sun set on the boat, a quiet but relaxing evening. 

Christmas Day Dad and I went for a long bike ride in the morning and found a great secluded beach called Turtle Cove. You had to walk through a tunnel of mangroves and sea grape trees to reach the sand. It was beautiful and the water was warm but neither of us decided to go in, the ride back was too long to be wet. When we got back to the main drag we treated ourselves to giant Bloody Mary's with jumbo shrimp garnishes at a beach bar not far from the marina. We stayed for awhile at the bar, reacclimatizing ourselves to people before calling it a day. It was a simple way to spend Christmas and it was nice but I missed my family. I missed the brightly colored wrapping paper, new toys strewn on the floor amongst the pine needles, the smiles, the hugs, I even missed the chaos of traveling through the snow to visit them on Christmas. I decided next year on Christmas I'll do all the things that I missed twice. Twice as many hugs, twice as many smiles, and twice as many pieces of my aunt's cheesecake. 

What we ate: fish tacos, burritos, salad, shrimp & Dad had buffalo wings

Spotted: coconut stages




Log Book: December 22nd

Conditions: 80 & sunny
Location: Eau Gallie 

I am sunburnt and I love it. Today was just as beautiful as yesterday, eighty five and sunny. We stopped short of our original goal, only traveling about thirty miles today. It was simply too nice of a day to spend it all motoring. The heavy southeast wind still prevented us from sailing. We pulled into the harbor at Eau Gallie and got out the rum and music once more. Dad and I set up the hammock and relaxed for a bit. We watched the dolphins swim by and the ospreys resting on the sailboat masts. Before long Dad was daring me to go swimming, and I never lose a dare. The water was like stepping into a warm bath. One of our friends from home says, on every good day, "today's top ten." Today and yesterday were both top ten kind of days, maybe the best days that I have ever experienced, perfect tens. Dad mentioned going ashore for a bike ride but I was so content I couldn't picture anything worse than leaving. We will be spending the night grilling and living the dream. I could stay here forever. 

What we ate: artichoke & pork ribs
Spotted: Dad's island hat



Friday, January 10, 2014

Log Book: December 20th

Conditions: 70 degrees, sunny
Location: Daytona

We left Tom and Kathy's house this morning after a big breakfast of pancakes and sausages. It is very hard to leave good company, good food, a pool, and a warm bed but we can't ignore the good weather. Sadly it's time to move on. It is high seventies but the wind is still cold. Just over the road on the east side of the canal lies the ocean, undoubtably adding a chill to the air. After hearing the stories of Tom and Kathy's own trip to the Keys and the Bahamas I am dying to get there ASAP. I told Dad that we should go back to getting fifty miles in a day. He readily agreed but we would have to stop short today at Daytona due to the lack of anchorages in between here and the next stop. Upon anchoring Dad and I launched the dingy in an attempt to use up what little sunlight we had left to us. I went for a run on the beach. Like Jacksonville the sand here was rock hard. There were many more cars here though and the sand was even hard enough to support bike riders. All over the beach families and friends were clustered playing frisbee, football, and even bocci. I ran by them all, admiring the life, but it was clearly the off season here. There were no tourists and the many bars along the strip were void of any activity. At the end of my run I met up with Dad and he suggested we go to the oyster bar on the corner. I knew this was a bad idea. With our only means of refrigeration on board being an icebox we have to maintain a strict dinner schedule, but I'll never say no to oysters... We had clams on the half she'll too. It seems as if everywhere we go the menu is cheaper than its equivalent in New England. Although the oysters here were from Texas and the clams were from Cedar Creek they were each around ten dollars a dozen. Back at the boat we had no thoughts of dinner and went straight to bed. The anchorage we had chosen was superb, very little current and not too deep. We were sheltered by the causeway. This is the first indication that anchoring in Florida would not be the dangerous pain that it had been in Georgia.



Log Book: December 21st

Conditions: 5 knot SE wind
Location: Titusville

We left Daytona today at 7am. The morning was glorious, even before the sun rose it was warm. Dad lamented the fact that the wind remained southeast, making it impossible to sail in the narrow channel. Dad and I kept our eyes peeled for manatees the whole morning. Tom and Kathy had said that we might see them past Daytona. The manatee warning signs were everywhere, more prevalent than anywhere we had previously been. They flanked the sides of the channel every half mile. But all we saw were dolphins. By noon the wind and sun were both unseasonably warm, almost breaking record highs. We are expecting the next few days to be like this. Dad put the music on and it felt as if we had reached the Bahamas already. I sat on the bow for a bit and watched the boats go by on the canal. Families were fishing, couples were kayaking, and bikini clad girls were paddle boarding. It was the prefect day. I told myself that I could do this for forever. I then realized that I had already been doing this for what seems like forever, today was simply the nicest day we had seen yet. The next canal, called the Haulover, was much more narrow than the long canal we went through this morning. Small skiffs lined the shallows and kids stood on the shore with their poles each one hoping to make the catch of the day. It was in this canal that I saw a huge slimy gray circular something breach the water, twice. My memory first flashed to a sting ray that I had seen at the beach a few summers ago but my mind soon realized that this was my first manatee sighting. It was exciting but we were too far away to see the whole manatee. We reached Titusville an hour later, listening to reggae the entire way to set a summertime mood. When we reached the mooring field we heard the live band emanating from the restaurant on the dock, promoting us to mix some pineapple and rum. The band lead sung "I'm Feeling Good" by Nina Simone. It couldn't be more perfect. I put an artichoke on and Dad and I kicked back in the cockpit to listen to the tunes. I couldn't help but think of my girlfriends. If they were here we would be having a blast. We would be burning the burgers, dancing on he deck, and someone would be swimming by now. One day perhaps, for now I am thankful to have a relaxed, perfect evening with my Dad. Tomorrow we will head for Melbourne, we are still debating whether or not to visit the museums at Cape Kennedy. 

What we ate: artichoke, corn, burgers

Spotted: osprey circling the boat, Dad said that I better get under the dodger, "he's not looking at me," he claimed






Log Book: December 17th-19th

Conditions: 80-70 degrees mostly sunny
Location: Palm Coast

We fueled up and took on water before leaving Saint Augustine this morning. There was no feeling this time that we had over stayed our welcome. The city still seemed alive and ready to be explored some more. Maybe that is the best way to leave a place, to not explore every path. That way you will want to come back.
The weather was mild and in the low seventies. We made our way to Palm Coast, the hometown of Kathy and Tom Gaffey, former Connecticut residents. The area was very nice, all the houses were almost exactly the same color. Tom informed us that it was a building code in the town so that you "have to like beige to live here." You also had to have an uncanny memory. Not only were the houses all the same color but the neighborhoods were divided up alphabetically. This meant that in the C district, where Tom and Kathy reside, all the street names start something like Cedar... Crest, grove, wood, field, hollow, you get the idea. Tom proved that the GPS was an essential tool to living a stress free life in Florida. Tom and Kathy invited us to stay at their house and boy was it relaxing, almost like being home again. Tom took us to the beach and showed us all the good anchorages and marinas to stop at down the ICW. Kathy showed us pictures of the Bahamas that they had taken while sailing their own boat south and told me all the good spots to find shells. I am anxious to get my hands on a sea biscuit. We had such a good time that we stayed two nights. I tried to catch up with the blog but was too mesmerized by the internet to do much good. I think I watched three movies and three tv episodes while we were there.

What we ate: comfort food! lasagna, green beans, cole slaw, burgers, kielbasa

Spotted: the pink panther



Log Book: December 15th-16th

Conditions: 64 degrees, sunny
Location: Saint Augustine

We said our tearful goodbyes to Mom in Jacksonville last night only to catch her in Saint Augustine today, it wasn't as far of a sail as we has thought. We actually beat her here as she had meetings to attend in Jacksonville all day. Dad and I explored the town before she arrived. It was much cuter and tourist friendlier than Jacksonville. The town is beautiful, centered around a large boulevard with a town green in the center. The streets are flanked with art boutiques, galleries, and restaurants. Trolleys run up and down the boulevard, reminding strollers that it is Christmas, singing carols and waving Santa hats. The entire town is decked out in Christmas lights. They really do it up. I feel that all the southern towns we have visited have shown this reverence toward Christmas. I think they do it because without the lights, the Santa hats, the bells, and the garlands there is little indication that it is the Christmas season. I do miss the snow, especially since this Florida weather hasn't exactly been tropical. After exploring Dad and I met mom under the Christmas lights and went to the nearest bar to watch our Lady Huskies take on Duke, the number one vs the number two team in women's basketball. At the bar we sat next to a Duke fan, Meg. Meg was from North Carolina, where she said that the light blue of UNC and the dark blue of Duke were gang signs. Meg was so interesting that after we dropped Mom off at the shuttle to her hotel Dad and I went back to the bar to continue the friendship. Meg had lived in Boston before moving to Hawaii so she could "thaw out," among other things. Meg told us she would take us to all the good spots around town. We first went to the bar where she worked. It was a tiny, one room bar with just enough room for a few couches and coffee tables. It was not your average bar. Squeezed into the back was a small walk in humidor. Meg picked out two of her favorite cigars for us and we bought her a drink. Up the small, rickety stairs in the bar was a dark lounge area. Embedded in the floor was a skylight in which you could see into the bar below. It was all very cool. Dad and Meg played a long (and slow) game of chess before we left. Dad won but I'm pretty sure Meg gave up the goose so that we could final get out of there. Next we went to The Ice Bar. This new bar and restaurant had opened up in an old ice house, where ice was cut and sold back in the day. The building still faintly smelled of saw dust, in which ice used to be insulated in. The restaurant still cuts it's own ice for it's custom drinks. The drinks were fabulous and we forgot the time as Meg told us the interesting stories of her past. By the time we got back to the boat it was way past our bedtime. We didn't discuss what time we would leave in the morning but it was understood that it would NOT be very early.
Dad and I were slow to move this morning and seeing as how late in the day it was we decided to stay. We said it was to explore some more but we both knew that it was really to recover. We went ashore and took advantage of the internet, showers, and coffee shop. We took a peak into Flagler College. It was beautiful, seated in the remnants of the former Flagler Hotel. Walking through the college was like walking back in time. The buildings seemed to be in perfect conditions. You expected a woman with a parasol or a man with a pocket watch to walk by at any minute. Later we went to an Italian restaurant that was recommended to us. It was just like Paul's Pasta, a favorite restaurant of ours at home. The food was delicious and we left with bulging bellies, both of us feeling that sleep would be immediate tonight as it always is after red wine and pasta.


Log Book: December 13th-14th

Conditions: NE wind
Location: Jacksonville

We left Fernandina Beach this morning, leaving the paper mill behind. The sail to Jacksonville was tense. We spent the day on and off the phone with Mom, trying to figure out exactly when we would be able to see her. At least we actually sailed today, making the trip much faster and infinitely more relaxing. When we pulled into the Jacksonville City Free Dock we were stunned to see that the city was clearly no where near by. As we didn't have a back up plan we were forced to stay. Our navigational charts could have directed us into the heart of Jacksonville, but our waterway guide, which directs us to all the anchorages, marinas, and docks along the ICW, does not extend as inland as Jacksonville. Thinking that we might not be able to meet up with Mom I started to mope and went for a run to blow off some steam. By the time I got back Mom had landed. We worked together on the logistics and made it happen. An hour later we were in the car on the way to dinner at fabulous Thai restaurant on the outskirts of Jacksonville. My mother's welcome work party told us all about the sites to see in Jacksonville and the best beaches to go to. By the time we got to the hotel I was exhausted. Mom and I snuggled up in our suite. I was so tired I didn't even watch tv or even more shockingly check out the pool. Dad and I plan to stay in Jacksonville until Mom has to leave on Tuesday for Saint Augustine, on Wednesday she flies home.

Today Mom, Dad, and I drove out to Huguenot Beach. The sand here was so hard and flat that many cars were driving up and down the beach. Dad suggested that we drive the beach too, that soon you won't be allowed to drive on beaches at all. I asked him why you would want to drive the beach when you can walk it. Mom and I spent most of our time looking for shells, our favorite pastime. I found a few sand dollars but I was really looking for shark teeth, which the welcome center employee told us we could easily find. We had no luck. After the beach we went to check out a popular fish camp called Clark's. I had never heard of a fish camp before but apparently they are usually small waterside bait shops that sell the catch of the day and sometimes they will cook it for you. We were told that Clark's Fish Camp was more of restaurant than a real bait shop, and more rustic and decorative as well. We had no idea what we were in for. Inside the restaurant the bar stools were roughly cut from logs and the bar looked as if the owner had sliced a tree longways and installed it in the restaurant. There was a large tank with turtles, fish, and a live alligator inside it. Compared to the rest of the decorations these oddities were normal. The more shocking decorations were mounted on every spare bit of wall, hanging from the ceiling, and glaring from the rafters; lions, and tigers, and bears oh my! Clark's was the largest, private taxidermy display in Florida. The restaurant held a game hunter's version of stuffed animals. There were gazelles, tigers, rhinos, giraffes, and so much more. It was very intimidating. The menu was even more intimidating with a selection from crab to alligator, quail, frog, escargot and loads more. We saw the house steak pass by our table before we ordered. It looked as if it had come from a dinosaur. Mom called it a "Fred Flintstone steak." We were quite happy to leave all the watchful eyes behind, giggling at how strange Florida could be. Back at the hotel we tried to stroll around to get a feel for Jacksonville, but the city seemed to be empty. There was no one in the street and all of the restaurants were closed. It seemed that the heart of the city really dwelled in the boroughs in the outskirts. Dad and I plan to stock up tomorrow and check out the next day. Mom is traveling to Saint Augustine on Tuesday and perhaps we can catch her there though we haven't gotten our hopes up.

Spotted: Christmas octopus? 


Saturday, January 4, 2014

Log Book: December 11th

Conditions: 75 & sunny
Location: Fernandina Beach

We left Shellbine Creek in the late afternoon, partly because our next stop, Fernandina Beach was a mere twenty miles away but also so we could catch up on some sleep. The anchor line wrapped itself around the keel again. A sign that we need to get farther south, away from the strange Georgia tides/wind and into the calm Florida waters. The anchor didn't drag but we still had a restless night checking and double checking our position. Hopefully our struggle will soon be over. Navigating and anchoring through Georgia has been like a game of Jumangi, you never know what your roll may bring. Fernandina is just across the boarder and into Florida. We chose this spot to stop so that we didn't arrive in Jacksonville too early. My mother is flying into Jacksonville on Saturday so we plan to stay a few days in the city to see her. Dad and I both agreed that we don't want staying in one place for too long to get our spirits down so we will take our time getting to Jacksonville to time our stay perfectly with my mother's. Fernandina was a charming little town, but when we arrived I was skeptical. A large paper mill lay just past the marina. The smell was so strange, a mix of rubber, pine, and sawdust. We spent the night on a mooring and decided that we would stay tomorrow as well. 

What we ate: swordfish & potatoes


Log Book: December 10th

Conditions: S wind, 10 knots
Location: Shellbine Creek

This morning Dad and I went to a coffee shop in town at Brunswick Point and then ventured to the Winn Dixie to stock up on food. On our way back to the marina Dad and I decided to take a shortcut through the "bad part of town." It is hard to say what exactly I expected but it was surely not what we found. On the north side of town was poverty the likes of which I have never seen in the U.S. The houses were tiny and unkept. The sidewalks were strewn with trash. The shabbiness of the neighborhood was shocking when compared to the clean, upgraded Main Street just a block south. But it wasn't just the neighborhood fixtures that were upsetting. The people out on the streets, sitting in their lawns, sweeping their sidewalks were devoid of hope. The despondency of the residents hinted to the obvious inequality of the area. When Dad and I walked down the street you could cut the tension with a knife. It was nice to get back to the marina, to sail away and ignore what we had seen but we couldn't really ignore it at all. 
It had taken us so long to run our errands that we didn't get off the dock until twelve thirty. On our crossing through Jekyll Sound I got sea sick, the first time in more than three weeks. Luckily we didn't have much further to go. We pulled into Shellbine Creek behind a catamaran as sunset was looming. We were the only two boats in the creek. Dad was somewhat unhappy about the lack of wind coverage that the creek had to offer, but it was too dark to do anything about it. After we were settled Dad and I had a discussion on poverty, the factors that increase it, and the solutions to reduce it. We settled on one thing, that poverty and wealth, like most dichotomies, are not simple divisions of black and white, rich and poor. If that were true poverty could be easily reduced. The difference is much larger than access to green pieces of paper and so is the solution. 

What we ate: green beans & ribs
Spotted: frog legs in the "seafood" section of the grocery store




Friday, January 3, 2014

Log Book: December 8th

Conditions: SE wind
Location:Crescent river

Dad and I woke up with the sun, tired but ready to leave. Beaujolais had already taken off, probably feeling the same as us after the nights events. We found them docked at the marina as we left the creek. It was very foggy but the beginning of our journey was through wide rivers so we weren't too bothered by it. The dense fog and still air made it feel hotter than it really was. Dad threatened to stop at every beach we passed. I told him to get a grip it's not THAT warm. As the fog cleared off we saw a few sailboats chasing us. Without much wind to encourage the fleet along the day was dull. We all followed in a parade line down the Front River, in which Dad and I gave up the lead. No one could get far though, the strong current was working against us. It was pretty clear that we were all headed for the anchorage at the Crescent River. When we came upon the mouth of the river three sailboats were already perched there for the night. There was plenty of room but the river was deep and open, making the boats susceptible to the sort of anchor dragging that we endured last night. So Dad and I explored a little further up the river. To our surprise we found a prime anchorage, a small basin cut out of the marsh. The area seemed devoid of tide and untouched by the wind. Dad was so pleased, it meant a quiet night. I found it hard to sleep, often waking up thinking that we were drifting. The ordeal of last night made me so anxious. It was not a good feeling, insecurity at home, leading us purposefully into danger. I've never been able to count sheep, though I admit that I haven't really tried, why count sheep when you can count stars? A much better use of your time.

What we ate: tortellini 
Spotted: dolphin (2nd picture)


Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Log Book: December 7th

Conditions: 60 degrees, sunny
Location: Kilkenny Creek, GA

When we awoke at high tide in Bryan Creek the scenery was quite different. The muddy banks that had surrounded us when we went to bed we replaced by water, water everywhere. While maneuvering around the shoals to get into the creek was difficult, leaving was a piece of cake due to the high tide. The day was entirely uneventful except for the crossing out of South Carolina and into Georgia. I finally feel like we are getting somewhere really worth being, but to be honest it doesn't look like it. Georgia has been devoid of life so far. The place is covered in salt marsh. Dad says that there is so much marsh here, making it too expensive to build bridge after bridge over the wetlands. He said there is a reason no one talks about the famous Georgia beaches, because most of them are very hard to access. Before reaching Georgia we had been warned that the state was distinctly hard to navigate due to the strong tidal range, moving shaols, poorly marked channels, and poor holding for the anchor. Many ICW sailors we had met suggested that we sail outside, in the ocean, and skip Georgia entirely. We are not brave enough for that yet. We pulled into the marina at Kilkenny Creek in the late afternoon to get fuel. The place looked exactly how you would expect a marina to look on the byou in the Deep South. The rickety dock opened up to a pavilion, under which the marina hauled boats. There were huge wooden boxes under the pavilion as well, the tops of which were uncovered with PVC piping around the edge. Dad and I curiously walked over to these boxes and found them to be full of water and live shrimp. It was pretty cool, but very backwater and extremely quiet. It was unlike any marina I had ever been to, it wasn't immediately apparent if they had electricity.  Dad asked if I wanted to spend the night on the dock. I told him that there are no showers, no lounge area, no town, and most importantly no interweb so clearly it was not worth staying, how wrong I was. We left the dock and anchored in the basin just a little further up the creek. We were completely alone until another sailboat, flying a Canadian flag, showed up just before bed and anchored just north of our spot. Around one in the morning Dad woke me up and told me to come up on deck. Up in the cockpit I looked around, we had moved far. We were now miraculously on the north side of the Canadians, about twenty yards away from them. It was amazing that we hadn't collided with them as our anchor dragged us downstream. But the anchor seemed to be secure and unmoving now so we decided to leave it as it was. The tide was incredible, water was rushing by the hull. It was like watching rainwater run down the gutter. Even with all that movement, including the movement of the boat, it was still dead silent inside the creek. It was hard to go back to bed after all the excitement. Turns out there was no need to sleep, less than a half hour later I heard a subtle "tap-tap" on the hull that could only be one thing, fiberglass on fiberglass. Dad and I rushed out the companion way to see the bow of the Canadians boat rapping gently on our transome. We tried to pull the two boats apart but the Canadians anchor weights were fouled on our rudder, wedged into the small gap between rudder and boat. Dad tried in vain with the boat hook to pull the line free. As the situation got worse I suggested that we wake up our foreign friends. As you can imagine it is quite a shock to be woken up by strangers on your boat, a very alarming happenstance, like walking into a strangers bedroom and shouting hello at two in the morning. Dad knocked hard on the hull and although they were startled the crew of Beaujolais was in pretty good spirits. More than an hour later, and after many failed maneuvers we were free floating again and quite a ways apart. The whole experience was incredibly stressful. Again the adrenaline kept Dad and I awake afterwards so we made hot chocolate and sat in the cockpit. It was a good thing we did. Soon enough the tide changed causing 
our anchor line to run foul around our keel again, though we hadn't begun to move. Dad figured out a solution and was able to maneuver the boat over the anchor and the line came free. Just in the nick of time too. As soon as we got back to our chocolate we saw Beaujolais start moving backwards and fast. Their anchor had wrapped around their keel as well and the force of the current dragged the ship backward into the dark. Fortunately Dad and I were close enough for the crew to hear our shouts. They started their engine but were unable to put it in gear, for fear that their propeller would slice through their anchor line. The engine power would be their last resort. If need be they would let go of their anchor line but retrieving it in this muddy mess would be nearly impossible. Luckily it didn't come to that. Having experienced the same situation moments before Dad directed the helmsman in loud shouts to steer hard to starboard so the boat would *cross your fingers* sail over top of the anchor line and come free. This all happened in a matter of moments, seconds really. In that small amount of time it is hard to figure out the best possible action. Panic seems the only action to take, logic escapes you, and more often than not one is left with a hand on a wheel with buckets of uncertainty. The seconds are important, I thought after the ordeal was all over and both boats secured. It was now five in the morning, two hours before sunrise. Dad told me to get some sleep so we could get out of here as soon as possible when it was light enough.

What we ate: sweet potato, & BBQ chicken 






Monday, December 30, 2013

Log Book: December 6th

Conditions: 70 degrees and sunny
Location: Bryan Creek

This morning Dad and I took a walk down the main road in Beaufort. We stumbled upon a beautiful park with swinging wooden benches. We swung back and forth for a few minutes for nostalgia. After taking it all in we moved on to have breakfast at a place called The Market. It was great and they had a wide selection of food to go as well. Dad brought a jar of gumbo back to the boat with us. We set sail in the early afternoon. Dad said he had gotten a glimpse of the hospital where he was born and that's all he really needed. Not long after leaving Beaufort I pointed a few military planes out to Dad, the sound of gun shots, and finally a large water tower with big black words printed on it. Dad calculated these facts together and concluded that we were passing Paris Island "where heroes come to train," he said. Paris Island meant absolutely nothing to me so Dad further explained that it is where the government trains the marines. My grandfather, my father's father, was a marine so Dad has a very strange attitude toward the lot of them. It is a mixture of both reverence and dislike, a feeling toward parents that I think all teenagers can understand. We then had a discussion about the frequency of military might that we have seen during our journey south. I asked Dad why there was such a military presence down here compared to New England. They have more land? Or fewer liberals? We had a great time making jokes along the lines of "hide it from the liberals?" Mine were funny I swear, and dad's were corny as always.
We originally planed our next stop to be Hilton Head. However the narrow gap between sandbars that led to the west side of Hilton Head was poorly plotted by our chartographers. Instead we made for Bryan Creek, less than a mile south. The creek received great reviews on one of our favorite websites, Active Captain. The reviews stressed the quiet scenery and active wildlife, so we weren't too disappointed that we would miss out on Hilton Head, which was supposedly a beautiful stop, maybe on the way back.
We crept slowly into the creek at low tide. The muddly shoal was stealthily inching further and further out into the water making it difficult to get into the creek. Once inside we found deep water, though it was very narrow, scarcely room enough for one boat. Dad was nervous that we would swing onto the bank during the night so we put out two anchors. After that we had a peaceful evening eating dinner in the cockpit and listening to the sounds of the salt marsh.

What we ate: chicken tacos