Thursday, January 30, 2014

Log Book: January 6th

Conditions: 76 degrees 
Location: Marine Stadium, Miami

Today we made our way to Miami, leap frogging the rain clouds as we went. It was, according to Dad, typical Florida weather. I exchanged my bathing suit for my raincoat and vice versa every half hour. At this point Dad and I are both sick of canals. Thankfully Miami marks an end to the intercostal waterway, for us anyway. Many sailors travel through the Florida Bay down to the keys from Miami, but Dad and I plan to go outside through the Florida Channel to Key Largo as soon as we get a weather window. The city of Miami was deceptively beautiful as we entered Marine Stadium. The Stadium is a large circular basin filled with anchored boats. It is hard to imagine it now but the Stadium gets its name for being just that, an old sporting arena. At some point in its history boaters raced power boats around in the waterlogged stadium where bleachers lined the shores and spectators had a clear view of Miami for a background. Today, no indication of Marine Stadium's high speed past. It is now popular with transient boaters because of its 270 degrees of protection from north, south, and east winds. It is what Dad calls "a hurricane hole." Unfortunately, the Stadium is short some 90 degrees, making it an uncomfortable spot if a storm blew in from the northwest and that's just what the weatherman has predicted for us tomorrow. We decided that we will make a move early tomorrow to get to No Name Harbor (yes that's the real name) in Key Biscayne to wait out the storm there before heading down to Key Largo.

What we ate: pot roast, potatoes, carrots



Log Book: January 4th-5th

Conditions: 70-75 degrees
Location: Fort Lauderdale

Today Dad and I went through thirteen bridges as we made our way down to Fort Lauderdale. They came one after the other, barely a mile apart. It was very frustrating. The tide was against us all day, making it hard to reach each bridge opening on time. At least we found a quiet municipal marina with mooring balls to stay at for the night. Being in Fort Lauderdale, the cost of a mooring ball for the night was about the cost to stay the night on the dock at a regular marina.
We put our feet on the ground the next morning and went out to breakfast. On the main road we stepped into a crowd of swimmers. The Swimming Hall of Fame was hosting a polar bear plunge swim meet out on the beach. It was 73 degrees. Yeah. The long narrow beach was littered with activities; volleyball, soccer, runners, bikers, some cross-fit people, the swimmers and a Hawaiian style wedding to name a few. The beach was bordered by the busy A1A highway. Flashy cars whizzed by Dad and I as we ate breakfast in a sidewalk cafe. Dad spent a lot of time in Fort Lauderdale during his college days. He has some wide stories. On our way back to the boat we peaked into the local beach bar that Dad said was the place to be back in the day. It was empty but Dad suggested that we stay the weekend and see if it livens up at all.
This morning Dad and I headed down Las Olas Boulevard, away from the beach and toward an art fair that we heard about from the marina staff. It was a good turn out. White tents were setup on the Boulevard full of pictures, paintings, sculptures, and ornaments. There's isn't much room for paintings or trinkets on the boat but I was tempted to make an exception. I settled to have a gelato instead, which only required additional space in my tummy. After the fair Dad and I went to a great cheese and wine shop on the Boulevard. We ate Gouda and sopressata, drank red wine, and listened to the live two man band. Although we didn't make it back to the beach bar the night was still a success. The restaurant reminded us of being in New York City. If you have been to both the city and Las Olas Boulevard you know that they are not at all alike. In the streets of Fort Lauderdale wealthy retires and Florida beach bums amble around the town, rarely mixing but all looking for a good time. In New York no one ambles, people are always mixing, and every one is always working (even when they say they're not). BUT almost every year Dad and I find at least one reason to go to New York and before catching the train back home we pick up a bottle of red wine, stop at the Lexington Market in Grand Central and pick out our favorite meat, cheese, and crackers. On the train home we host a little part in our train car. Tonight felt like we should be walking out of the restaurant and onto the train platform in the snow in New England. If you haven't done it you need to try it.

Spotted: flock of parrots (not pictured), & automated bike rentals throughout town - pick up a bike on the boulevard return it on the beach



Log Book: December 3rd

Conditions: 68 degrees
Location: Delray Beach

Another long uneventful day in the Florida canals. The only noteworthy occurrence was when we spotted a boy swimming right in the middle of the waterway. Another young boy was in a small power boat near the kid, yelling at him to get back into the boat. Swimming in the canal is definitely against the law and is a dangerous game to play. Many smaller canals open up onto the waterway and power boats are constantly speeding by, going faster than safe for a swimmer. Dad wanted to call the marine patrol on the radio. I asked him if he was too old to remember how to have fun = silence.

We arrived at the Delray anchorage just before sundown. It was a small basin. There wasn't much room and at first Dad seemed nervous about staying. Will we fit? Is it deep enough? Is it sand or mud? Will we drag? When an anchorage isn't ideal a lengthy conversation is held on the negatives and positives of the location and on the other options available. Since there were no other obvious options available (no other anchorages or marinas nearby) the second half of the conversation was short, we had no choice but to stay. There was only one other boat but the small anchorage was surrounded by private docks, encroaching on the available space. But it turned out we were fine. Once we got the anchor down, realized we had a good hold and plenty of swinging room Dad finally relaxed. We watched some kids fish off of the dock before eating a quick dinner and going to bed.



Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Log Book: December 27th - January 2nd

Conditions: 60-70 degrees
Location: North Palm Beach

The trip from Jensen Beach to North Palm was exhausting. The closer we got to the Lake Worth area, the more low bridges we encountered. We waited for seven bridges in total. Dad and I were both getting very annoyed, it is a tedious thing to wait for a bridge. The current in the canal was strong so we couldn't simply remain still waiting, instead we had to circle around, travel up and down the canal, and avoid oncoming traffic. On the other hand I'm now a pro at radio communication. Dad and I joked about starting a radio show in the droning style of the NOAA weather report (computers that sound like people). We only traveled a little over twenty miles but with all of the bridge delays it took us all day to reach Old Port Cove Marina, which had been recommended to us. Our friends Bill and Catherine live very close by and have graciously invited us to stay. It will be a treat to spend New Years with friends.
We stayed in Palm Beach for five days. I met up with my cousin Jimmy who happened to be in the area for the holiday. It was so nice to mingle with people my age again and we had a great time. Especially since I want able to see any family for Christmas.
Bill and Catherine took us to an eventful farmers market on Sunday with garden plants, baked goods, jewelry, art and more. I got Dad a new Hawaiian shirt to add to his collection.
All in all Dad and I spent the week watching football, relaxing, and enjoying great company.

Spotted: kite surfing is the thing to do down here. 



Sunday, January 12, 2014

Log Book: December 26th

Conditions: 70's
Location: Jensen Beach

We got to Jensen Beach in the late afternoon and made it ashore for a quick look around. Dad went to college a few miles from here at the Florida Institute of Technology, but he said that even the street signs had different names. We walked along the main road and explored Dad's old jaunts, but everything seemed to be new. When the sun set vendors came out onto the sidewalk and sold books, jewelry, scarfs, and art. The most popular stand housed a young guy playing techno music. He was vigorously spray painting canvas for the crowd to create an outer space landscape. Dad and I watched him paint for awhile like the rest of the mesmerized crowd. We returned to the anchorage and Dad told me what Jensen beach had been like when he was here and all the trouble he caused. We plan on going for a bike ride tomorrow to a beach Dad refers to as 'the Baths' and the House of Refuge where they raise sea turtle eggs. 
The branch of FIT that dad went to has since closed but we biked over to campus to see it anyway. No wonder the branch is closed, I don't see how anyone could study here. It is now a large park, right on the water. The only building that remains of the college is the mansion. The giant, white house on the hill was owned by Ann Leach, a Coca-Cola heiress, before it was donated and became the center of the college campus. The hill on which the house stands was an ancient Native American midden, a sort of dump site. The house is yards from the water and a boardwalk hugs the shore close to the building. Dad and I walked our bikes along this boardwalk to the front of the house where we found white double doors that led inside. The doors were locked and the inside appeared to be empty but Dad told me that while he was here this was the entrance to the college bar, upstairs housed the administrative offices. Dad told me his favorite stories of nights at the campus bar while we walked the rest of the boardwalk. The boardwalk ended near a beach that was full of Hobiecats, 420s, and Lasers it turned out to be a very expansive community sailing program. Dad told me a story of the first time he ever went sailing, it was off this very beach and it didn't go so well. Around noon we biked back to the boat, the wind had picked up while we were gone so Dad wanted to make sure we were securely anchored still. Back on the main drag in Jensen Beach we went out to lunch at a New Orleans fashioned restaurant that had been recommended to us. The food at Crawdaddy's was excellent. I tried crawfish for the first time. There's not much to them, it's the sauce that counts. After lunch we got back on the bikes and headed for the Florida Oceanographic Society. It was a mini aquarium not too far from the House of Refuge, our next stop. The aquarium had small tanks with fish and descriptions, the usual boring stuff. The artificial lagoon was the interesting exhibit. This was a huge man made lake with different kinds of fish, sea turtles, and nurse sharks. Dad and I spent hours watching the different fish swim by, ever time you thought you had seen them all a new one would show up. Next up was the House of Refuge, the now museum on the beach was originally built to house shipwrecked sailors that were often marooned on the uninhibited Hutchinson Island. The Refuge was later used to spot German U-boats and to protect and house endangered species of sea turtles who used the surrounding beach as a nesting ground. The museum curator was more interesting than the museum itself. He told us of a pirate, Gilbert, who use to sail out of Hutchinson Island. Gilbert used to light a fire on a sandbar just off the island, fooling his prey into thinking that the bar was the port that they were looking for. When the perspective ship went aground Gilbert and his men sailed out to plunder the ship and to kill the survivors, dead men tell no tales kind of thing. He was caught after he bored a ship of the Royal Navy, imprisoned the crew below, and set the ship on fire but the crew escaped Pirates of the Caribbean style. Gilbert was hunted down by the British and eventually hanged for piracy and if you haven't said argh in your head at least once while reading this I'm disappointed in you. Our last stop of the day was the Baths. The Baths is a public beach on the ocean. This beach is unlike any other due to the tube worm reef just offshore. The reef blunts the force of the ocean, protecting the beach from the waves, making it calm like a bath hence the name. By the time we got back to the boat we were both aching from the long ride but the day was a success.

What we ate: gumbo, seared tuna sandwich, crawfish
Spotted: sea turtle & a beach bum




Log Book: December 23rd-25th

Conditions: 10 knots S wind
Location: Vero Beach

We left Eau Gallie quite early this morning, we needed to get to Vero Beach with enough time to restock our food supply. We had originally hoped to make it to West Palm for Christmas but it would be quite a flight to make in the next two days so we will stay the holiday in Vero Beach. We got a mooring with the marina there and made our way ashore. Vero turned out to be a great place to stop. They had a West Marine and a grocery store close by, a free shuttle to bring you there and back, and wide bike lanes. We got some authentic Mexican food while we were doing our shopping and then headed back to the marina. Even though it doesn't feel like Christmas in the warm weather, a few boat owners had tried to bring the Christmas spirit into the harbor, decking their boats in colored lights and miniature fir trees. Mom gave me a small Cyprus tree when we saw her in Jacksonville so I guess Dad and I are participating a bit. We relaxed and watched the sun set on the boat, a quiet but relaxing evening. 

Christmas Day Dad and I went for a long bike ride in the morning and found a great secluded beach called Turtle Cove. You had to walk through a tunnel of mangroves and sea grape trees to reach the sand. It was beautiful and the water was warm but neither of us decided to go in, the ride back was too long to be wet. When we got back to the main drag we treated ourselves to giant Bloody Mary's with jumbo shrimp garnishes at a beach bar not far from the marina. We stayed for awhile at the bar, reacclimatizing ourselves to people before calling it a day. It was a simple way to spend Christmas and it was nice but I missed my family. I missed the brightly colored wrapping paper, new toys strewn on the floor amongst the pine needles, the smiles, the hugs, I even missed the chaos of traveling through the snow to visit them on Christmas. I decided next year on Christmas I'll do all the things that I missed twice. Twice as many hugs, twice as many smiles, and twice as many pieces of my aunt's cheesecake. 

What we ate: fish tacos, burritos, salad, shrimp & Dad had buffalo wings

Spotted: coconut stages




Log Book: December 22nd

Conditions: 80 & sunny
Location: Eau Gallie 

I am sunburnt and I love it. Today was just as beautiful as yesterday, eighty five and sunny. We stopped short of our original goal, only traveling about thirty miles today. It was simply too nice of a day to spend it all motoring. The heavy southeast wind still prevented us from sailing. We pulled into the harbor at Eau Gallie and got out the rum and music once more. Dad and I set up the hammock and relaxed for a bit. We watched the dolphins swim by and the ospreys resting on the sailboat masts. Before long Dad was daring me to go swimming, and I never lose a dare. The water was like stepping into a warm bath. One of our friends from home says, on every good day, "today's top ten." Today and yesterday were both top ten kind of days, maybe the best days that I have ever experienced, perfect tens. Dad mentioned going ashore for a bike ride but I was so content I couldn't picture anything worse than leaving. We will be spending the night grilling and living the dream. I could stay here forever. 

What we ate: artichoke & pork ribs
Spotted: Dad's island hat



Friday, January 10, 2014

Log Book: December 20th

Conditions: 70 degrees, sunny
Location: Daytona

We left Tom and Kathy's house this morning after a big breakfast of pancakes and sausages. It is very hard to leave good company, good food, a pool, and a warm bed but we can't ignore the good weather. Sadly it's time to move on. It is high seventies but the wind is still cold. Just over the road on the east side of the canal lies the ocean, undoubtably adding a chill to the air. After hearing the stories of Tom and Kathy's own trip to the Keys and the Bahamas I am dying to get there ASAP. I told Dad that we should go back to getting fifty miles in a day. He readily agreed but we would have to stop short today at Daytona due to the lack of anchorages in between here and the next stop. Upon anchoring Dad and I launched the dingy in an attempt to use up what little sunlight we had left to us. I went for a run on the beach. Like Jacksonville the sand here was rock hard. There were many more cars here though and the sand was even hard enough to support bike riders. All over the beach families and friends were clustered playing frisbee, football, and even bocci. I ran by them all, admiring the life, but it was clearly the off season here. There were no tourists and the many bars along the strip were void of any activity. At the end of my run I met up with Dad and he suggested we go to the oyster bar on the corner. I knew this was a bad idea. With our only means of refrigeration on board being an icebox we have to maintain a strict dinner schedule, but I'll never say no to oysters... We had clams on the half she'll too. It seems as if everywhere we go the menu is cheaper than its equivalent in New England. Although the oysters here were from Texas and the clams were from Cedar Creek they were each around ten dollars a dozen. Back at the boat we had no thoughts of dinner and went straight to bed. The anchorage we had chosen was superb, very little current and not too deep. We were sheltered by the causeway. This is the first indication that anchoring in Florida would not be the dangerous pain that it had been in Georgia.



Log Book: December 21st

Conditions: 5 knot SE wind
Location: Titusville

We left Daytona today at 7am. The morning was glorious, even before the sun rose it was warm. Dad lamented the fact that the wind remained southeast, making it impossible to sail in the narrow channel. Dad and I kept our eyes peeled for manatees the whole morning. Tom and Kathy had said that we might see them past Daytona. The manatee warning signs were everywhere, more prevalent than anywhere we had previously been. They flanked the sides of the channel every half mile. But all we saw were dolphins. By noon the wind and sun were both unseasonably warm, almost breaking record highs. We are expecting the next few days to be like this. Dad put the music on and it felt as if we had reached the Bahamas already. I sat on the bow for a bit and watched the boats go by on the canal. Families were fishing, couples were kayaking, and bikini clad girls were paddle boarding. It was the prefect day. I told myself that I could do this for forever. I then realized that I had already been doing this for what seems like forever, today was simply the nicest day we had seen yet. The next canal, called the Haulover, was much more narrow than the long canal we went through this morning. Small skiffs lined the shallows and kids stood on the shore with their poles each one hoping to make the catch of the day. It was in this canal that I saw a huge slimy gray circular something breach the water, twice. My memory first flashed to a sting ray that I had seen at the beach a few summers ago but my mind soon realized that this was my first manatee sighting. It was exciting but we were too far away to see the whole manatee. We reached Titusville an hour later, listening to reggae the entire way to set a summertime mood. When we reached the mooring field we heard the live band emanating from the restaurant on the dock, promoting us to mix some pineapple and rum. The band lead sung "I'm Feeling Good" by Nina Simone. It couldn't be more perfect. I put an artichoke on and Dad and I kicked back in the cockpit to listen to the tunes. I couldn't help but think of my girlfriends. If they were here we would be having a blast. We would be burning the burgers, dancing on he deck, and someone would be swimming by now. One day perhaps, for now I am thankful to have a relaxed, perfect evening with my Dad. Tomorrow we will head for Melbourne, we are still debating whether or not to visit the museums at Cape Kennedy. 

What we ate: artichoke, corn, burgers

Spotted: osprey circling the boat, Dad said that I better get under the dodger, "he's not looking at me," he claimed






Log Book: December 17th-19th

Conditions: 80-70 degrees mostly sunny
Location: Palm Coast

We fueled up and took on water before leaving Saint Augustine this morning. There was no feeling this time that we had over stayed our welcome. The city still seemed alive and ready to be explored some more. Maybe that is the best way to leave a place, to not explore every path. That way you will want to come back.
The weather was mild and in the low seventies. We made our way to Palm Coast, the hometown of Kathy and Tom Gaffey, former Connecticut residents. The area was very nice, all the houses were almost exactly the same color. Tom informed us that it was a building code in the town so that you "have to like beige to live here." You also had to have an uncanny memory. Not only were the houses all the same color but the neighborhoods were divided up alphabetically. This meant that in the C district, where Tom and Kathy reside, all the street names start something like Cedar... Crest, grove, wood, field, hollow, you get the idea. Tom proved that the GPS was an essential tool to living a stress free life in Florida. Tom and Kathy invited us to stay at their house and boy was it relaxing, almost like being home again. Tom took us to the beach and showed us all the good anchorages and marinas to stop at down the ICW. Kathy showed us pictures of the Bahamas that they had taken while sailing their own boat south and told me all the good spots to find shells. I am anxious to get my hands on a sea biscuit. We had such a good time that we stayed two nights. I tried to catch up with the blog but was too mesmerized by the internet to do much good. I think I watched three movies and three tv episodes while we were there.

What we ate: comfort food! lasagna, green beans, cole slaw, burgers, kielbasa

Spotted: the pink panther



Log Book: December 15th-16th

Conditions: 64 degrees, sunny
Location: Saint Augustine

We said our tearful goodbyes to Mom in Jacksonville last night only to catch her in Saint Augustine today, it wasn't as far of a sail as we has thought. We actually beat her here as she had meetings to attend in Jacksonville all day. Dad and I explored the town before she arrived. It was much cuter and tourist friendlier than Jacksonville. The town is beautiful, centered around a large boulevard with a town green in the center. The streets are flanked with art boutiques, galleries, and restaurants. Trolleys run up and down the boulevard, reminding strollers that it is Christmas, singing carols and waving Santa hats. The entire town is decked out in Christmas lights. They really do it up. I feel that all the southern towns we have visited have shown this reverence toward Christmas. I think they do it because without the lights, the Santa hats, the bells, and the garlands there is little indication that it is the Christmas season. I do miss the snow, especially since this Florida weather hasn't exactly been tropical. After exploring Dad and I met mom under the Christmas lights and went to the nearest bar to watch our Lady Huskies take on Duke, the number one vs the number two team in women's basketball. At the bar we sat next to a Duke fan, Meg. Meg was from North Carolina, where she said that the light blue of UNC and the dark blue of Duke were gang signs. Meg was so interesting that after we dropped Mom off at the shuttle to her hotel Dad and I went back to the bar to continue the friendship. Meg had lived in Boston before moving to Hawaii so she could "thaw out," among other things. Meg told us she would take us to all the good spots around town. We first went to the bar where she worked. It was a tiny, one room bar with just enough room for a few couches and coffee tables. It was not your average bar. Squeezed into the back was a small walk in humidor. Meg picked out two of her favorite cigars for us and we bought her a drink. Up the small, rickety stairs in the bar was a dark lounge area. Embedded in the floor was a skylight in which you could see into the bar below. It was all very cool. Dad and Meg played a long (and slow) game of chess before we left. Dad won but I'm pretty sure Meg gave up the goose so that we could final get out of there. Next we went to The Ice Bar. This new bar and restaurant had opened up in an old ice house, where ice was cut and sold back in the day. The building still faintly smelled of saw dust, in which ice used to be insulated in. The restaurant still cuts it's own ice for it's custom drinks. The drinks were fabulous and we forgot the time as Meg told us the interesting stories of her past. By the time we got back to the boat it was way past our bedtime. We didn't discuss what time we would leave in the morning but it was understood that it would NOT be very early.
Dad and I were slow to move this morning and seeing as how late in the day it was we decided to stay. We said it was to explore some more but we both knew that it was really to recover. We went ashore and took advantage of the internet, showers, and coffee shop. We took a peak into Flagler College. It was beautiful, seated in the remnants of the former Flagler Hotel. Walking through the college was like walking back in time. The buildings seemed to be in perfect conditions. You expected a woman with a parasol or a man with a pocket watch to walk by at any minute. Later we went to an Italian restaurant that was recommended to us. It was just like Paul's Pasta, a favorite restaurant of ours at home. The food was delicious and we left with bulging bellies, both of us feeling that sleep would be immediate tonight as it always is after red wine and pasta.